Stories

Arab-Norman architecture in Palermo was born quite literally at the crossroads of cultures. The Normans arrived in a city where Greeks, Arabs and Jews lived side by side, and built their Catholic churches with Byzantine mosaic artists, Western architects and local Arab craftsmen. That’s how very different traditions came together in the same architecture.

A few centuries ago, parks were a privilege reserved for churches and the aristocracy, while Villa Giulia became one of the first places in Italy created simply for the public. Here, Atlas holds an unusual sundial, the Sicilian Pantheon hides among the cypress trees, and one of Palermo’s Genii.

Panelle and crocchè are classics of Palermo street food today, but they were once food for poor families. They say panelle were even shaped like little fish and fried in old oil that had already been used for fish, to give them some of its flavour and make it feel like there was a proper fish dinner on the table.

Palermo’s old aristocracy openly looked down on the Florios — outsiders, merchants with no title and no great fortune. But when the aristocrats needed money, it was the Florios they turned to, putting up their properties and businesses as collateral or simply selling them.

One of the main secrets of a good cannolo is fresh ricotta. That’s why one of my favourite places at Ballarò is Benedetta’s, where she makes fresh ricotta every morning and turns it straight into cannoli cream.

You get used to Palermo’s rhythm pretty quickly: I try to get anything important done in the morning or after 4 pm, because in the afternoon, we rest. Banks, small shops, museums, churches and restaurants follow much the same rhythm, and on Sundays many places may be closed.

One of the most impressive things about Palermo’s giant ficus trees is their aerial roots. They grow down from the side branches towards the ground and gradually become new supports, allowing the heavy branches to keep growing.

There used to be a bakery at Capo market called Panificio Morello, decorated with a golden mosaic of Demeter that locals called Pupa du Capo — “the girl of Capo.” One version of how it came to be begins with the love story of a young woman from a noble family and a simple baker, Salvatore Morello.